author: unknown
Hatchlings range in size from 9-14 inches; adults are generally 2.5 to 5 feet in length; most are in the 3-4 foot range. In captivity, hatchlings and adults feed quite happily on pre-killed mice. The average life span of these snakes is 10 years, although one was documented to be 21 years old.
Enclosure:
Corns and Rats must be housed in at least a 20 gallon tank. The tank must have a secure top. A determined snake can push against screen or glass until it finds an opening big enough for its head; where its head goes, so goes its body. Some snakes will constantly rub their nose against the screened top of the tank in an effort to find a way out. The furnishings in the enclosure should provide a natural environment. A hide box of some sort should be provided, and an interesting branch for climbing and resting. With com and rat snakes, there are a couple of different substrates that can be used, such as pine chips (not cedar chips, are toxic), indoor/outdoor carpeting and "Astroturf. If you use the carpeting or Astroturf, you must wash it then let it dry thoroughly before it can be used in the tank again; have two pieces on hand which can be rotated. The snakes will often burrow under the chips or carpet/turf, so don't be surprised if they are not always in view. If you use pine chips, the urine and feces can be scooped out with a cat litter scoop, with fresh chips added as needed. Be sure to remove soiled chips as soon as possible; urine-soaked chips become a breeding ground for bacteria and fungus. If you use chips, you will have to place your snake in a secure area to feed it; you do not want it to ingest any chips.Temperature:
A reptile heat tape is placed under one-half of the tank; this leaves one side cooler so that your snake can regulate its body temperature as needed. To maintain health, corn and rat snakes must be kept at 75-85 F, the higher temperature being necessary to digest its food. Temperatures can fall to the lower range at night. To easily monitor temperature, inexpensive aquarium self-stick thermometers can be purchased and applied about an inch above the bottom of the tank on the warm side. Hot rocks should never be used, they fluctuate too much, and too many reptiles suffer severe ventral burns An incandescent light bulb in a reflector shield may be set just outside the tank to heat up a basking area; appliance timers can be set to turn the light on and off at set times during the day. Reset the hours of operation to adjust for seasonal fluctuations in ambient air temperature.
Feeding:
An active snake will happily eat every 10 days or so. They will eat, and should only be fed, killed prey. A snake who is not hungry when live prey is introduced into the enclosure often finds itself becoming the meal, especially if the prey is a rat. To economize, you can buy in bulk and freeze them. Contact your local herpetology society; many members breed mice and rats, and most will pre-kill them for you. Remove the prey item from the freezer and allow to defrost at room temperature. When defrosted, use forceps or tongs to pick up the rodent by the tail, and hold the prey in front of the snake for the snake to strike at. Many snakes will eat prey that is just placed in the tank. Start hatchlings off with pinkie mice. As your snake grows, gradually increase the prey size by offering fuzzies, crews, then small adult mice or rat pinkies. A full-grown Corn or Rat can eat a medium to large mouse; large Rat snakes can eat small rats A bowl of fresh water must always be available at all times. It will be used for drinking and sometimes for bathing. If the snake defecates in it, the bowl must be cleaned and disinfected immediately. As a reptile grows, its old skin become too tight and worn. A new skin awaits just below the old. As a snake gets ready to shed, its eyes will turn a milky blue over the course of several days, and the body color will start to dull and develop a whitish sheen. Once the eyes have cleared, the snake is ready to shed. To assure proper hydration, soak the snake in warmish water after the eyes clear; this should enable to snake to shed easily within the next 24 hours.