Popular Arizona Natives in Herpetoculture

by Petra Spiess

For many, the word "Arizona" conjures up images of expansive, barren sand dunes and monuments of sun bleached rock. Nothing could be farther from the truth. Arizona is a state of incredible diversity, both in ecozones and wildlife. Climatic zones range form the hot and dry Sonoran desert to the alpine meadows atop Humphry's Peak, Arizona's highest mountain. Many people who have never been to Arizona and seen its splendor believe that the desert zones are devoid of life, when in fact, the opposite is true. In the harsh climate of the Sonoran desert, life is subtle but abundant, and can be seen on display if one is patient and observant. Corresponding with the incredible diversity of Arizona's ecozones is an amazing number of popular reptile species commonly kept and bred in herpetoculture. Before any discussion of the natural history, captive care, and breeding of these popular species can take place however, a review of Arizona's native wildlife laws is in order.

Arizona Natives and the Law

Compared to some states, Arizona has rather stringent native wildlife laws. All of the species that will be discussed here , with the exception of the gila monster (Heloderma suspectum), can be collected from the wild, provided the collector possesses either an in-state or out-of-state general hunting license. There are different daily bag and possession limits for each species. Rosy boas (Lichanura trivirgata) and western green ratsnakes (Senticolis triaspis intermedia) both have a yearly bag limit of two and a possession limit of four of each species. The banded gecko (Coleonyx variegatus) has a yearly bag and possession limit of twenty in aggregate. In Arizona, there exists no permit system for the captive breeding and sale of native wildlife. Captive born offspring of legally acquired parent stock must be given away as a gift or disposed of as directed by Arizona Game and Fish Department (Levell, 1995). In 1995, a group of individuals submitted a proposal that would have legalized the sale of captive born Arizona native reptiles, but it fell through. Therefore, the sale of any native reptile, whether it be wild caught or captive born, is strictly illegal in the state of Arizona. Please obey all state laws regarding take and possession limits of each species. Breaking state reptile laws reflects poorly on herpetoculturists as a whole and only leads to more restrictive legislation. Four popular Arizona natives in herpetoculture include: the rosy boa (Lichanura trivirgata), the western green ratsnake (Senticolis triaspis intermedia), the banded gecko (Coleonyx variegatus), and the gila monster (Heloderma suspectum).

The Rosy Boa (Lichanura trivirgata)

Rosy boas are arguably one of the most popular Arizona natives in herpetoculture today. Rosy boas are small, rarely exceeding 36 inches (90 cm), hardy, beautiful, and relatively easy to breed. All of these traits combine to make the rosy boa a most attractive captive. The ground color of rosy boas in Arizona ranges from a tan to a silver color. The dorsal stripes range in color from a deep chocolate to orange. Some localities have extensive amounts of speckling. Also, some localities have juveniles with chocolate stripes, while adults in the same habitat have orange stripes. It appears as if rosy boas in this area undergo an ontogenetic color change as they mature. Rosy boas range throughout the southwestern half of the state, although isolated exceptions can be found (Stebbins, 1985). Rosy boa taxonomy is still being refined. In Arizona, many sources list two subspecies of the rosy boa, Lichanura trivirgata trivirgata, the Mexican rosy boa, which has a restricted range in extreme southwestern Arizona, and Lichanura trivirgata gracia, the desert rosy boa, which is found across the rest of the range. In a review of the genus done by David Spiteri (1993) however, Lichanura trivirgata gracia is grouped with Lichanura trivirgata myriolepis, the mid-Baja rosy boa. Spiteri also proposes that a new subspecies, Lichanura trivirgata arizonae, the Arizona rosy boa, exits in western central Arizona. Taxonomists are still bickering about this genus however, and whether or not these designations, or alternate groupings, will be accepted as official has not yet been determined.

In Arizona, rosy boas often inhabit desert scrub containing prominent and abundant boulder piles which are utilized for hiding, aestivation, and hibernaculum. Rosy boas are also often found in rodent holes, which may serve both as a hiding areas, and as a source of sit-and-wait prey items. Although the macrohabitat of rosy boas is extremely low in relative humidity (average about 15-30%), the microhabitat is often two the three times more humid than the surrounding area. This pattern often occurs in the natural history of other desert reptile species such as the banded gecko (Coleonyx variegatus). Many people consider the rosy boa rare in Arizona, but it is likely that a relatively uniform dispersal rate and normal periods of extended inactivity are responsible for this assumption. Rosy boas spend a significant amount of time inactive in hiding areas, and venture out only when looking for a mate, food, or thermoregulating.

Rosy boas have some interesting habits. Rosy boas I have observed in the daytime, or during a well-lit nighttime, move their bodies with a peculiar "jerking" motion of the head. As the snake progresses, the head continually moves forward and backward. This is possibly an attempt to break up the animal's body outline, as a large number of rosy boa predators are birds. Interestingly enough, I have not observed this behavior much in my captive born rosy boas. Rosy boas also have an interesting defensive mechanism. When molested, rosy boas will roll up in a ball with their heads in the center and their blunt tail sticking out. As a result of this behavior, many wild rosy boas are missing a significant portion of their tails, as predators attack the tail but do not succeed in capturing the entire animal. This is perhaps, one possible way to determine between a wild caught versus captive bred adult animal. Wild rosy boas are extremely docile and rarely bite. However, I personally have been bitten by more captive born rosy boas than by any number of other "more aggressive" snake species. Sufficed to say that in my experience, captive born rosy boas are best described as "feisty".

The most rosy boa activity occurs in the spring and summer months. In the spring, rosy boas are mainly crepuscular, but as the temperatures rise into the summer months, they become almost exclusively nocturnal. Rosy boas have been observed moving across roads when the ambient temperature was as low as 68 degrees F (20 degrees C). The best time to find rosy boas is in the morning or evening hours of late spring when the relative humidity is moderate to high (50-80%). The ideal day for rosy boa activity would include a sunny morning, a brief afternoon shower to raise the humidity, and an overcast day and evening. If searching for rosy boas during the summer months, look only after the sun has gone down and there is little or no moonlight. Rosy boas seem to prefer nights with little or no moonlight, presumably because they are less visible and hence, less vulnerable to predation. Rosy boa captive care is straightforward.

Rosy Boa Captive Care

Wild caught rosy boas must be deparasitized, these animals can carry a heavy load of both internal and external parasites. The best procedure is to collect a stool sample after the animals has been set up in a quarantined enclosure and take it to a qualified reptile veterinarian to determine what parasites are present. Some people routinely deparasitize their animals without a preliminary fecal exam, but there is a danger with this type of treatment. Fecal exams have the express purpose of determining exactly which parasitic organisms are present in the animal, and as such, treatment can be specifically tailored to produce the best results. Deparasitation is also very stressful on an animal's physiology, and if that animal is not in the best of health before the treatment is enacted, it can exasperate an already dangerous situation. Unless the keeper is very experienced in determining what treatment should be given and when, it is recommended that a reptile veterinarian be consulted before any treatment is undertaken. Wild-caught rosy boas may have a difficult time acclimating to captivity, they may refuse to feed for months. Witwer (1996) suggests that providing a naturalistic environment may help wild rosy boas to acclimate. Captive born offspring are generally superior to wild-caught animals in all respects.

Rosy boas are hardy captives if provided with the proper conditions. A thermal gradient of 70-75 degrees F (21-24 degrees C) on the cool end, to a warm spot of 85-88 degrees F (29-31 degrees C) on the warm end is ideal. Gravid females however, should have a warm spot of 88-92 degrees F (31-33.3) available during gestation. High humidity (in excess of 60%) for extended periods of time should be avoided. Natural history studies show that the microhabitat of rosy boas is much higher in relative humidity than the surrounding areas, so moderate levels of humidity should not be a major concern. Adult rosy boas can be housed in an enclosure that measures 3 x 2 x 2 ft. (1 x .66 x .66 ) (l x w x h). It is important to have an enclosure large enough so that the proper thermal gradient may be achieved. Substrates can include newspaper, paper towels, wood chips (not cedar), or substrate collected from rosy boa habitat. No matter which substrate is utilized, always provide rosy boas with a hiding area on both ends of the thermal gradient. The animal must be able to fit its entire body into the hiding spot. Rosy boas are naturally very secretive and will stress if not provided with a place to hide. Captive born rosy boas are generally very good rodent feeders, however, wild-caughts may have some difficulty adjusting to a diet of domestic mice.

Breeding

The rosy boa is a relatively easy snake to breed. Male rosy boas possess "spurs" on each side of the vent. Females of this species either do not have spurs, or they are very small. The only way to be 100% sure of sex is to probe. Male rosy boas probe to a depth of 10 or more subcaudals, and female can probe 3-5 subcaudals. Generally, rosy boas are sexually mature at 3 years of age. This species should be hibernated at 55-60 degrees F (12.7-15.5 degrees C) for two to three months. After the hibernation period, warm the animals up and feed them heavily (especially the females). Two weeks after coming out of hibernation, introduce the males to the females. Many breeders choose the leave the male with the female for a period of several weeks. Gestation takes anywhere from 3 1/2 to 6 months. The female will usually have a pre-parturition shed a week or two before birth. Rosy boas, like all boas, give birth to full-formed young instead of laying eggs. Litters range from 2-15 young. Rosy boas will only produce one litter of offspring in a breeding season. House the neonates individually, and provide the same conditions as are provided for the adults (with the exception of a smaller enclosure). Some individuals may be difficult to feed, and may need to be hibernated throughout the winter to stimulate their appetite. The vast majority of rosy boa hatchlings will eventually accept a domestic pinky mouse as their first meal, the ones who do not may be tempted by a lizard or wild-mouse scented pinky. Rosy boas are far more common in herpetoculture than the next Arizona native, the western green ratsnake.

The Western Green Ratsnake (Senticolis triapsis intermedia)

The western green ratsnake (Senticols triapsis intermedia) is an extremely secretive, and therefore difficult to find, Arizona native. Nonetheless, this beautiful and different species is popular in herpetoculture. The common name is somewhat of a misnomer, the western green ratsnake is really only green over its range in Arizona and Chiapas, Mexico (Staszko and Walls, 1994). It is a relativly long, slender snake measuring 25-60 inches (60-150 cm) with an olive green, grey-green, or green dorsum and an off-white or cream ventral. This snake has a very limited range in extreme southeastern Arizona and prefers mountain woodland, thornscrub, and chaparral habitats. Like the rosy boa, this species is attracted to a permanent water source (Stebbins, 1985). The western green ratsnake will climb and can often be found during the day in trees or shurbs. At night, this species returns to hiding areas in boulder piles. The best time to find this snake, like the rosy boa, is during the spring. Because this species often spends the daytime in vegetation, the best time to look is during the early morning and twilight hours when the animals are moving to and from their nighttime retreats. The cryptic coloration of this species makes it almost impossible to see among the leaves of chaparral plant species. Juveniles have a brown pattern much like a corn snake, which fades into uniform green as the animals mature.

Captive Care

This species has been quoted as being "one of the most difficult ratsnakes" to keep in captivity (Staszko and Walls, 1994). Wild-caught animals of this species, are indeed, difficult captives. Wild western green ratsnakes are often heavily parasitized and easily stressed, both of which combine to make this species venerable to serious captive husbandry problems. Wild caught specimens are best kept by experienced herpetoculturists. Captive born offspring are a much better choice is one desires to keep this species. The thermal gradient for this species should be 65-70 degrees F (18-21 degrees C) on the cool end with a warm spot of 80-85 degrees F (26-29 degrees C). Like the rosy boa, this species must have hiding areas in the cage in order to fare well. Adult western green ratsnakes should be housed in enclosures no smaller than 3 x 2 x 2 ft (1 x .66 x .66 m). Larger caging is preferable, as this species does like to climb. Substrates may be newspaper, wood chips, paper towels, or substrate collected from the habitat.

Breeding

Breeding the western green ratsnake is very similar to breeding other North American ratsnakes. Males are distinguished by their proportionally longer and thicker tails, and by probing. Male western green ratsnakes will probe to a depth of 7-10 subcaudals whereas females will only probe to 3-5 (there are of course, variations, but almost all females probe below 7). This species should be hibernated at 50-55 degrees F (10-12.7 degrees C) for two to three months. After hibernation, feed the females heavily and look for the first post-hibernation shed. After the first post-hibernation shed, introduce the male. If the female is ovulating, copulation should take place within a few hours, many times, it occurs almost immediately. If copulation is not observed, remove the male and try again a few days later. Gestation runs anywhere from two to three months. As with other colubrids, the female will generally have a pre-egg laying shed one to two weeks before oviposition. Incubate the eggs in slightly moist vermiculite at 78-82 degrees F (25.5-27.7 degrees C). After 60 to 90 days, the eggs should hatch. The western green ratsnake is more rare in herpetoculture than the next Arizona native, the banded gecko (Coleonyx variegatus).

The Desert Banded Gecko (Coleonyx variegatus variegatus)

There are three subspecies of the banded gecko that occur in Arizona. The desert banded gecko (Coleonyx variegatus variegatus), is found over most of the western half of the state, the Tucson banded gecko (Coleonyx variegatus bogerti) is found over the southeastern quarter of the state, and the Utah banded gecko (Coleonyx variegatus utahensis) has a restricted range in the extreme northwestern corner of the state. All three subspecies range in length from 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm), posses moveable eyelids, fine, granular scales, and vertical pupils (Stebbins, 1985). The ground color ranges from a pink to pale yellow, with bands of brown and various amounts of brown spotting. Desert banded geckos are associated with extremely diverse habitats such as creosote flats, desert grasslands, and pinon-juniper belts. This species is nocturnal and terrestrial, spending the majority of the day hidden under or in rocks, crevices or subterranean holes. Banded geckos, like most desert reptiles, are most active in spring, when temperatures and food availability are favorable. The best time to find these geckos therefore, is from April to May after a rain. During the day banded geckos can be found by lifting up rocks or debris that have large pockets of moist ground beneath them. Turning over objects made of cardboard, or other objects which retain water, is a good way to capture desert banded geckos. At nighttime, this species can be found crossing roads, look for their eyeshine in the headlights. Desert banded geckos will voice their protest at being captured by letting out a loud squeaking noise.

Captive Care

Desert banded geckos can be housed in a number of ways. Pairs of geckos can be housed in shoebox sized rack units (14 x 7 x 4 in, 35 x 17.5 x 10 cm ) , and can easily be commercially bred. Alternately, breeding groups of geckos, one male to three or more females, can be housed in enclosures with the minimum dimensions of 24 x 12 x 6 inches (60 x 30 x 15 cm) Males should not be housed together, their aggressive combating will eventually lead to the injury or death of one or both of the participants. Appropriate substrate for banded gecko housing includes playground sand, wood chips, peat moss, natural substrate, or newspaper. Although banded geckos are found primarily in dry regions, they still require a humidity spot in their enclosure where the relative humidity is 60-80% in order to properly shed their skin. As is the case with other desert reptiles, the microhabitat that these animals spend the majority of their time in has a much higher relative humidity than the surrounding areas. Humidity spots are easily create from deli cups or Tupperware. Make sure the humidity site container is large enough to house all of the geckos in the enclosure. Cut an access hole in the top or side of the container. Fill the container half way with damp peat or sphagnum moss. Always keep this area moist and replace the moss when it becomes soiled.

Desert banded geckos do not bask, so the best type of heating fixture to use with this nocturnal species in an undertank heating pad or heat tape. The cool end temperature should be 75-80 degrees F (24-27 degrees C) and the warm end should be 85-88 degrees F (29-31 degrees C). Make sure to provided hiding areas on both the warm and cool ends of the enclosure, so the geckos can maintain their preferred body temperature. Gut loaded domestic crickets should form the nucleus of the captive diet. Avoid feeding insects that are much larger than the gecko's heads, insects that are too large can cause intestinal impaction. Other insects of appropriate size such as cockroaches, pill bugs, grasshoppers (small ones), and mealworms will also be eagerly accepted. Banded geckos can be fed three to four times a week. At every other feeding, they prey items should be coated with a high quality reptile calcium supplement. A small dish of calcium supplement may also be included in the enclosure itself to prevent the animals from ingesting substrate in a search for dietary calcium. A small, shallow container of clean water should be available at all times. As these geckos are nocturnal, full spectrum lighting is not necessary, although it will benefit any plants in the enclosure.

Breeding

Male banded geckos can be distinguished from females by the presence of small fleshy appendages on either side of the tail base. Sexual maturity is usually reached at 12 months of age, although well fed specimens may reach breeding age at 9 months. Hibernation for 3-4 weeks at 50-59 degrees F (10-15 degrees C) is recommend to cycle the adults for breeding. Breeding has occurred without this hibernation period, but seems to produce less successful results. Breeding behavior occurs after this winter hibernation period. The male uses a copulation bite during mating, and can injure the female in his ardor. Watch female geckos during the breeding season for any torn skin. Open wounds should be treated with an antiseptic ointment or liquid to prevent infection. After breeding has been noted, include an egg-laying chamber in the enclosure if a humidity site is not already present. Oviposition generally occurs from April to October, although egg-laying can occur at any time during the year. Generally, there are two eggs per clutch, and females can lay up to five clutches during the season. Incubation temperature should be 80-85 degrees F (26.6-29.4 degrees C), with the eggs resting in slightly damp vermiculite. Incubation times range from 45-60 days. The young should be housed individually, and have the same environmental needs as the adults. Banded geckos are one of Arizona's most common reptiles, the next species, the gila monster (Heloderma suspectum) is much harder to observe in the wild.

The Gila Monster (Heloderma suspectum)

Even persons not familiar with reptiles can positively identify a gila monster. Gila monsters are patterned in orange or yellow and black scales that have a "beaded" appearance. This species ranges in size from 9-14 inches (22-35 cm) (Stebbins, 1985). Gila monsters have tongues much like monitor lizards (Varanus sp.) do, which are thick and forked. This species is one of only two venomous lizards in the world, the other being the closely related Mexican beaded lizard (Heloderma horridum). Gila monster venom is extremely potent, but this animal will not bite unless it is molested. There are no reliable reports of human deaths from gila monster bites. Gila monster venom is delivered via grooves in the animal's teeth, and as such, gila monsters have to chew on their prey items to move the venom into the wound. Sufficed to say, should one ever be bitten by a gila monster, the first order of business is removing the animal. From all reports of gila monster bites, this can prove to be a rather arduous task. The best way to avoid gila monster bites in the wild is to NEVER pick one up. Gila monsters are a protected species in the state of Arizona and there are severe penalties for anyone attempting to capture an animal for a pet or to sell.

Gila monsters are diurnal, and are most active in the spring months when there is an abundance of the gila's favorite food, eggs. Eggs from several different species of ground nesting birds make up the majority of the gila monster diet at certain times of the year. Gila monsters are also known to favor the eggs of the desert tortoise (Gopherus agassizii), a federally threatened species. Other wild prey items include small mammals, such as baby rabbits. Gila monster activity patterns are very similar to the patterns of other desert reptiles. During the hot summer months, gila monsters spend a significant portion of their day underground, during the winter months, gila monsters hibernate. Gila monsters may, as desert tortoises do, have a period of activity during the late summer and early fall monsoon months in the Sonoran desert. Although gila monsters are found in the dry Sonoran desert, they are not adapted very well to the low humidity, as their skin is much more permeable than other desert lizard species such as the chuckwalla (Sauromalus obesus). As such, they seem to prefer days where the relative humidity is moderate to high (50-80%) for their activities.

Gila monsters are not regularly found roaming about their habitat, so they are difficult to view in the wild. I lived in the Sonoran desert for 13 years, and hiked areas in gila monster habitat extensively for 12 years before I encountered not one, but two individuals out in the open a day apart. I was so excited when I spotted the black and orange figure crossing a dirt road that I grabbed my camera and jumped out my truck in hot pursuit (no pun intended). I shot 36 pictures of the gila monster, with 32 shots of the fleeing animal's rear end making up the majority of my effort. When I returned to my truck after this excursion, I realized that in my excitement, I had forgotten to leave the emergency brake on, because my vehicle was now quite far down the hill from where I had left it. The next day, close to the previous sighting, I spotted another gila monster crossing a different road. Both of these animals fled from my attention at a high rate of speed (for a gila monster). Neither displayed any aggressive behavior, with the exception of a low hissing noise. If cornered however, gila monsters will act out an impressive threat display by facing the threat, opening their mouths wide, hissing loudly, and occasionally jumping at their molester. Both of these animals were observed in the morning hours of late May. The temperature was 75 degrees F (24 degrees C) and the humidity was 60% on both occasions. With only 2 sightings in 13 years, I still consider myself lucky to have observed this animal in the wild at all.

Captive Care

The only way to keep a gila monster legally is to purchase captive born offspring. In Arizona, it is not legal to keep gila monsters, even captive born individuals, without a special permit. These permits are rarely issued to the general public and are reserved for educational or exhibition purposes only. Information about this permit is available from the Permits Coordinator of the Arizona Game and Fish Department. Gila monsters make interesting and hardy captives. It is best to house animals individually, for ease of feeding. Many breeders have had success however, with a colony approach provided the animals are separated at feeding times, and closely observed during the breeding season to assure the males will not injure each other. Gila monsters are rather large animals, and need large enclosures. The minimum dimensions for an individual gila monster enclosure should be 4 x 2 x 2 ft (1.3 x .66 x .66 m), bigger is always better. Large cattle stock tanks work very well for groups of gilas, as long as ample heat and hiding spots are provided. Gila monster substrates can include playground sand, bark chips, newspaper, or naturalistic substrate. Gila monsters do like to dig; a mixture of playground sand, peat moss, and bark chips, which allows these animals to construct hiding areas, may be among the best of substrate choices. Gilas do well with a thermal gradient of 75-80 degrees F (24-27 degrees C) on the cool end and a warm spot of 85-90 degrees F (29-32 degrees C). Gila monsters also love humidity, and they should be provided with a humidity site. Humidity sites can be constructed out of plastic containers large enough to hold one gila monster. An access hole should be cut into one end of the container and moist peat moss or sphagnum moss placed inside to fill up about half the volume of the box. Gilas will often utilize such areas for a significant portion of the day. Other hiding areas should also be provided, so the animals can choose their preferred environmental conditions. At night, the temperature may be allowed to drop to 70-75 degrees F (21-24 degrees C). Because gila monsters are diurnal, a naturalistic photoperiod should be provided. After hibernation, a schedule of 8 hours of light, 16 hours of darkness increasing over the summer to a max of 14 hours of light, 10 hours of darkness is beneficial (Strimple, 1995). Gila monsters will readily accept rodents of the appropriate size, and should be fed several prey items once or twice a week. After hibernation however, gilas should be fed twice their normal maintenance diet in preparation for the rigors of reproduction. Under no circumstances should gila monsters be feed domestic chicken eggs or chicks. A diet of domestic chicken will result in dietary deficiencies. Although gila monsters are whole-prey eaters in captivity, and thus receive vitamin D3 from the organs of the animals they consume, full-specturm lighting should still be provided as these animals are diurnal, and naturalistic lighting may be beneficial.

Breeding

Gila monster sex is difficult to determine, one method is to watch behavior during the breeding season. If a gila lays an egg, it is female, if it is actively climbing on top of all the other gilas, it is most likely a male. Another method that is rather reliable is radiography, and the subsequent noting of the length and width of a particular bone in the pelvic girdle. This feature is a reliable way to determine between the sexes (Strimple, 1995), but requires the assistance of a very knowledgeable reptile veterinarian. As with all of the other species mentioned here, gila monsters need a hibernation period. Two weeks before cooling down, do not feed the breeders, allowing their digestive tracts to clear. After the clearing period, slowly lower the ambient temperature over the period of two weeks until the hibernation temperature of 50-55 degrees F (10-12.7 degrees C) is reached. Make sure to provide hibernating gilas with access to water at all times to prevent dehydration. Many breeders begin the cool-down cycle in November, with the hibernation period lasting until March. The hibernation period should be from two to four months.

After the hibernation period, group the animals together in a large "breeding" enclosure. Male gilas will engage in combat, so it is necessary to closely watch the group at this time to make sure no injuries occur. Male to male combat seems to stimulate reproductive activity, with the winning male going on to mate with the females. Removing the males for a few days and reintroducing them often stimulates another round of breeding activity, and can increase the possibility of fertile eggs. Individual pair breeding can also be successful, but many breeders report higher rates of eggs laying and fertile clutches with a breeding group situation. Feed the animals, especially the females, heavily at this time. It is also beneficial to supplement the diet of female gilas with calcium, the rigors of egg production are extremely demanding. Gestation runs from 35-55 days. When the female is close to oviposition, she will often shed. This is a signal to move the female into her own quarters and provide an egg-laying chamber. Make sure to check the chamber often, as gila monsters will eat their own eggs. Incubate the eggs in slightly moist vermiculite (1:3 ratio water to vermiculite by weight). Gila monster eggs do not tolerate very high humidity, and are prone to fungal attacks. The humidity in the incubator should be 50-60%. A good indicator of humidity needs are the eggs themselves, if they begin to dent in, add a little water around the vermiculite. Incubation temperatures should range from 78-82 degrees F (25.5-27.7). The eggs generally hatch in 120-150 days. Neonate gilas should be housed individually, and offered the same environmental conditions as the adults. Female gila monsters should be bred every other year, breeding every year is very taxing an can shorten thier lifespans considerably.

Conclusion

The state of Arizona has much to offer both the herpetologist and herpetoculturist. Arizona's incredibly diverse ecozones contain a corresponding diversity of reptile species that will delight and fascinate researchers for decades to come. The four species discussed here are just a sample of the amazing reptile life endemic to the state of Arizona, many more species from this state will beckon the herpetoculturist. The next time the word "Arizona" is heard, instead of imagining barren sand dunes and rock, imagine instead the subtle life and beauty of the Sonoran desert, the pinon-juniper belts, the ponderosa pine forests, and the desert grasslands, for this is the true legacy of the reptile lover's paradise called Arizona.

References

Levell, John P. 1995. A Field Guide to Reptiles and the Law. Serpent's Tale Books. Excelsior, MN.

Spiteri, David G. 1993. "The Current Taxonomy and Captive Breeding of the Rosy Boa (Lichanura trivigata). The Vivarium. 5(3):18-19.

Staszko, Ray and Jerry G. Walls. 1994. Ratsnakes A Hobbyist's Guide to Elaphe and Kin. T.F.H. publications. Neptune City, NJ.

Stebbins, Robert C. 1985. Western Reptiles and Amphibians. Houghton Mifflin Company. New York, NY.

Strimple, Pete. 1995. "Captive Reproduction of Gila Monsters A Review". Reptiles. 3(7):16-24.

Witwer, Mark. 1996. "Rosy Boas". Reptile and Amphibian Magazine. Nov/Dec 1996: 58-69.