Red Spitting Cobra (Naja pallida)

Length:
Most
adults range in length between 70 – 120 cm with a mamximum of 150 cm, the tail
is fairly young and can be 15 – 19% of the total body length.
Zoological
Description:
The
Red Spitting Cobra is a relatively small cobra that is quite slender in body
proportions. They have a small head (some specimens can have big heads with huge
swollen venom glands clearly seen at the side of the head) with large eyes, with
a round pupil. The tail is long and the body is cylindrical of shape.
The
colour of this cobra can be variable depending on the origin of the snake. The
specimens from southern
Scalation:
-
Dorsal scales
on the midbody 21 – 27 rows
-
Ventrals 197
– 228
-
Subcaudals 61
– 72
-
Subscales are
Paired
-
Analscale is
single
-
Upper labials
7
-
Upper labials
entering the eye 1
-
Preoculairs 2
-
Postoclurairs
3
-
Lower labials
8 (7-9)
Taxonomic
Note:
The
Red Spitting Cobra together with the Mozambique Spitting Cobra (Naja
mossambica) and the West African Brown Spitting Cobra (Naja
katiensis) were thought to be a subspecies of the Black Spitting Cobra (Naja
nigricollis) for quite some time. After this is the Naja
pallida seen as a subspecies of Naja
mossambica and named Naja mossambica
pallida, this confusion still exists especially in older articles and books.
Now the Red Spitting Cobra is placed as a separate species. Specimens from
Geographic
Range:
The
Red Spitting Cobra is know to occur in northern
Habitat:
Adult
are mostly nocturnal and hiode in day time in termite hills, old logs, under
ground or in brush piles to cover the day. Juveniles seem to be more day active.
Captive
behaviour:
Red Spitting
Cobras are in captivity pleasant and thankful snakes to keep. Freshly wild
caught specimens can be very defensive when disturbed, they will rear up there
front part of the body flatten off there narrow hood hiss loud and spit there
venom in the direction of there attacker, when there attacker is not impressed
they will often choose to move away and hide. After keeping them for some weeks
in captivity they will calm down fairly quick and some keepers will never see
them hood again.
When
kept in a big enclosure are Red Spitters active and curious snakes that will
check al the insides of there enclosure. My Red Spitters are pretty docile but
can be fierce and furious when feeding time is there, live prey items will be
hunted down, but also dead prey items offered will be taken on a pretty
aggressive way. I handle my Red Spitters by tailing them and keeping them away
from my body with a snakehook. When working with these snakes I always wear
safety glasses, or even better a face mask. Juvenile Red Spitters are fast
moving and pretty easy to agitate.
Feeding:
In
nature do Red Spitting Cobras feed mainly on amphibians, but small mammals,
birds, eggs, other reptiles including other snakes will be taken to. When kept
under good circumstances are Red Spitting Cobras easy feeders in captivity. I
feed my snakes mostly with dead defrosted mice, rats or chicks which are offered
out of a large tweezer. When offered dead food items I will feed them in there
enclosure live prey items will be fed in a bin, otherwise they will breakdown
there enclosure because they are furious hunters. Hatchling are fed with
crickets and small grasshoppers which are mostly taken from the first time they
got offered after 3 months I start to offer them baby mice and soon they will
eat them to.
Breeding
Red Spitting Cobras:
For a long time was the Red Spitting Cobra one of the most bred cobras
in Europe, but because people couldn’t get rid of them many cobra keepers sold
there adults or stopped breeding them. Now the red spitting cobra is not bred
that much any more and to get some can be a real pain. I was also one of the
stupid guys that sold his adult breeding group and because of that I didn’t
breed them for several years. Now in March 2002 I purchased a new adult pair of
Red Spitters and I had they first mating already which gives me a good hope.
Red
Spitting Cobras are egg-layers and can produce clutches from 6 – 15 (24) eggs
in early European summer in captivity after a gestation period of 2 months most
mating will be seen in April. I incubated the eggs in a dry incubator on a
temperature between 28 – 300C and the humidity around 80% when the
humidity runs low I spray with water. After about 60 days the eggs will hatch,
hatchling will molt after 9 – 12 days when offered there first meal. I never
gave any of my Red Spitters a real hibernation period, but there is a fairly big
difference in temperature and humidity in my snake-room between Dutch summer and
winter time. In winter time I will feed my snakes less than in summer and I will
also give them smaller food items, because the digestion is slower.
Enclosures:
JJuveniles are
kept separate in plastic boxes on newspaper, with a small carton hiding box, a
cricket box with humid soil and a small water-dish. The boxes are placed on a
heating cable. Adults are kept as pair true out the year.
The
enclosures measure a size of 120 x 50 x 50 cm (Length x Height x Wide) they are
build from chip wood and are build in a sort of rack construction. The enclosure
can be opened true two glass sliding doors, which can be locked with a glass
showcase lock. Heating and lighting are done by a 60 Watt spotlight on the right
side of the enclosure, the bottom of the enclosure is also heated true the
enclosure under need the enclosure of the Red Spitters. The average temperature
in the enclosure is around 25 - 280C and directly under the spotlight
34 - 380C.
As a
substrate I use a mixture of river sand and peat, which I don’t really like to
use because of the dust, but the snakes seem to do perfect on this mixture. I
have kept my Red Spitters also on a mixture of coco-peat, potting soil,
river-sand and peat, which I mostly use at my other species of snakes but this
substrate is to wet for the Red Spitters and gives them skin problems. As
decoration I use hollow cork, some sand-stone rocks and Elephant trees to give
the enclosure a bit more colour. I don’t use a hiding box because the
decoration provides an of hiding places in the enclosure. Water is provided
twice a week in a shallow dish. In the enclosure I have placed a plastic box
filled with some coco-peat which is a bit humid which is used for egg laying,
and for the rest of the year to keep the humidity level good.
Copyright©2002
Richard Mastenbroek
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This
page is not build to stimulate people to keep venomous snakes. All Captive
information given on this page is based on own experience