____________________________
From the Site Coordinator

Greetings!! Summer is here, temperatures are rising, and those of us in the Eastern part of the US are finally starting to dry off after a record-making cool, wet spring. We can finally get outside to find what herpetofauna we can!

Since the last CBC, we have had some changes to our forum layouts, and have had mostly positive feedback about it. We've added some new forums, change names on others, and have condensed some of the lesser-used forums. If there's something you still think needs tweaking, though, send me an e-mail!

In this edition of the Cold-Blooded Chronicles, you'll find several things: An announcement of the launch of PondHobbyist.com, a caresheet about Common snapping turtles, and an article about the current controversy over locality-specific boas vs breeding morphs.

I hope you find that these articles are interesting, and useful - but don't be shy!! If you have suggestions for future articles, caresheets you'd like to see, or an idea for an interview, let me know!! I'd especially be interested in articles YOU write, so send them on!

Have a great summer, and here's hopes that you find lots of great herps on your next field trip - and don't forget to tell us all about them in the Field Notes & Observations Forum!

Happy herping,

Bonnie Keller
PH Scales
Site Coordinator, kingsnake.com
Contact PHScales

PS - Don't forget - we'd love to have some new faces join our staff of volunteer moderators. Click this link for more info!!

____________________
What's New? PondHobbyist.com!

Does frog song from a backyard pond send you to sleep every night? Do your turtles have their own pond? Does your love of all things cold-blooded include pond fish? Or are you just a watergarden fan?

Whatever your interest in ponds, kingsnake.com has a new sister site: PondHobbyist.com! You'll find a full line up of forums, including ones for amphibian ponds, watergardens, fish ponds, and turtle ponds. You'll see an ever-growing collection of advertisers, care sheets, recommended links, and other resources. Check it out at http://www.pondhobbyist.com!

__________________________________
Mega Morphs:
The Debate That Doesn’t Change
By Bonnie Keller

Only a few decades ago, those few individuals – mostly men – who were reptile enthusiasts mostly kept to themselves, and were always pleased when they could find one or two new species available to try their hand at keeping. Indeed, most of the original “herpers” were happy looking around at their local fauna to find the animals that fascinated them. When the local pet shop occasionally offered something more exotic, sheer glee often radiated from the very center of their being.

The last two decades have brought some change to this scene – the glee is still there, but for different reason.s The local pet store is not the only place to look for pet reptiles anymore, and the selection of reptiles available is astounding to those who can recall the early days. But not only has the sheer number of species available risen, but new colorations of old favorites have become wildly popular. These animals are genetically the same as their normal-colored counterparts, and yet quite different as well. The contradiction of their existence is one that has caused quite a stir in the herping community, and doesn’t give a hint of settling down any time soon.

At my request, several members from Kingsnake.com’s Boa Forum e-mailed me with their viewpoints on the issue of boa morphs. I have tried to present these various viewpoints as best I can, without linking them to the original author(s). It is my hope that by presenting all sides, a better understanding will occur between these parties, though I doubt it will change any minds. Please keep in mind that I have greatly simplified the arguments on both sides, for space reasons.

The Locality-Pure Argument

1. One of the most compelling arguments for not interbreeding locality-known animals is that of genetic purity. This one point was made by everyone who wrote from the “no morphs/pro-pure-bloodline” perspective. The general argument goes that if animals are continually bred with animals from other localities, eventually there may not be any specimens left of the original pure bloodline. The result would be that future generations wouldn’t have an example of what each locality looked like. For example, boas from Suriname don’t appear the same as those from Peru, or those from Guyana, etc. If they are all interbred, the result would be a “mutt” that doesn’t resemble any of the original locality-pure animals. On the same line of thinking, as one person pointed out, snakes in a given locality are a finite resource – once they are gone, they gone. It would be irresponsible to hasten that extinction by not encouraging the breeding of pure bloodlines.

2. A second point made by some respondents is that by crossing animals to emphasize a particular unusual trait, other genetic “defects” may also be emphasized. This reduces the ultimate viability of future generations. It has already been shown that some of these genetic aberrations seem to contribute to shorter life spans or generally poorer health of adult specimens.

3. A third argument I received against breeding for morphs is that by allowing money to drive the market for unusual colors and patterns, many breeders completely disregard health issues. While this is not necessarily true of all breeders, the point made was “Just because we CAN, doesn’t mean we SHOULD.”

4. And lastly, an interesting point made by one person was this: Different boa localities may be listed differently on international treaties regarding wildlife trade – such as the CITES index. If the different localities are bred together, that leaves the resulting offspring with less protection, as they would no longer be classified with either of the localities of their parentage.

Pro-morph Argument

Those who wrote supporting the morph industry had many more “points” to make than those who oppose it. I have tried to condense those that are essentially the same, leaving distinctly different arguments as separate bullets.

1. I found this first argument to be interesting in that it was presented as an environmentally-friendly position. The writer said that morph breeders have a wider variety of “parent” animals to choose from if they decide not to import wild-caught animals. Further, by using already captive animals, and producing captive-bred animals, it lessens the need for more imported animals.

2. The next point two respondents made very well was that by creating more attractive/unusual animals, more people become interested in the reptile hobby. They assert that this ongoing interest has helped the reptile community in its huge expansion in the last twenty years.

3. The next argument goes with #2 – that by focusing on the husbandry needs of the original parent animals back in the 1970s, with the intent to pass on the unusual markings on those animals, the rest of the herping community benefited from that knowledge.

4. A retaliatory comment to the Pro-Locality argument #1 was paraphrased this way: Breeding unusually marked animals together is no different from breeding animals with perfect markings. Each could be carrying hidden genetic anomalies that could be detrimental, but cannot be planned for.

The bottom line is this: Love them, or hate them, morphs are probably here to stay. Their undying popularity is driving an economy amongst reptile enthusiasts that couldn’t have even been dreamed of two decades ago. We now have reptile expos that attract enthusiasts the world over – some coming to see new specimens recently collected, some coming to see what new morph has been found. Either way - we all love reptiles, and hopefully our common interest will bind us together more than it divides us.

______________
Common Snapping Turtles:
Chelydra serpentina
By Steve Zuppa

Introduction

The common snapping turtle is a very hardy, wide ranging specie. Its natural range extends from southern Canada through the eastern and central United States and eastern Mexico to northern South America. Throughout this range are four very similar subspecies. The two US races, C.s.serpentina and C.s.osceola are the two most commonly seen in hobbyist collections, and they are the two we will discuss throughout this care sheet.

Identification of this specie is relatively easy and is recognized by the brown or black carapace, small yellow or white plastron, large head, and a very long saw toothed tail. It is a heavy turtle specie, with long term captives being fattened to 86 pounds. The carapace of young snappers is rough, but becomes smooth with age. Adults commonly reach 12 inches in shell length, and some even attain 18 inches and larger. Due to this large size, it does not make a very good pet for someone with limited space. If proper housing can be furnished, however, Chelydra proves to be one of the hardiest species.

Habits

The common name "snapping turtle" refers to the aggressive behaviors of this specie when pulled form its aquatic home. Underwater it is rather timid and prefers to swim away to being confronted. When taken from its environment, however, a snapping turtle will snap repeatedly. Sometimes a harassed specimen will raise the hind portion of its body and face whoever caught it, then lunge and attempt to bite. The jaws of the snapping turtle are strong and can cause serious damage to a careless handler. Other common names for the specie are alligator tailed turtle, snapper, and mud turtle (although it is not related to Kinosternon).

Evolution has made C.serpentina an ideal water predator. In much of its range, an adult snapper is at the top of the food chain (except for people).

The large, mud colored shell makes excellent camouflage on the pond bottom. The plastron need not cover the entire portion of the snapping turtle's lower side because this animal has no predators that lurk in the mud below it. It often crawls along the bottom rather than swimming and it is most active at dusk. Although well able to take a fish if given the opportunity, most snapping turtles forage along the water bottom, eating sick or injured fish, carrion, mussels, fish and frog eggs, tadpoles and frogs, invertebrates, and a surprising large amount of vegetation. Occasionally a healthy fish may be taken if cornered, and there are reports of snapping turtles taking snakes, baby alligators and even ducklings.

Housing

This large specie is difficult to house indoors. Although an enclosure as small as a 10 gallon tank will house several hatchlings, larger animals will need larger set ups.

Chelydra specimens rarely leave the water to bask and require a primarily aquatic set up. Instead, they typically float at the top of the water under an area heated by the sun or heat lamp. Young animals will sometimes float amongst aquatic vegetation in direct sunlight. A small land area should be provided, however, in case the reptile does decide to leave the water for a rest, etc.

The Hatchling Tank

Young snapping turtles should be provided a shallow water enclosure. The water depth should be at least as deep as the turtle's shell is long, and a ramped land area must be provided. When resting, many snapping turtles cling to the sides of the land area with the head extending above the surface while the rest of the body is submerged.

Use non-abrasive aquarium sand or smooth river gravels as a substrate. Filtration is a must, otherwise the water quickly becomes fouled and needs frequent changing. Several hatchlings or 1-4 inch turtles can be kept in a 10 gallon tank. After this size, a larger setup must be provided, following the same basic guidelines.

The Adult Tank

When a turtle surpasses 8 inches, housing becomes difficult. A small adult could be housed in facilities as small as a 55 gallon terrarium. I prefer to use large plastic totes however. These are available from many super stores. A 2'x4' plastic tote will house one large adult snapping turtle comfortably, although a larger set up would be even better. The water depth in this should also be as deep as the turtle is long (carapace length), and a land area is not necessary unless the turtle has been bred or is sick. Instead a flat stone or other item should be placed in one area of the tank to provide a shallower place to rest. Adults do not typically rest in the same manner as juveniles and instead will typically just resurface for a breath every few hours or so. Adults are messy animals and will quickly foul water if a high power filtration system is not put into play.

Heating and Lighting

The indoor turtle terrarium should be kept at approximately room temperature. A basking lamp should be positioned over the shallow area of the tank to provide a slightly warmed place to sit or "water bask" during the day. UV emitting fluorescent bulbs are recommended for general lighting. A 12-hour-on/12-hour-off photoperiod will keep the turtles healthy and active.

Outdoor Housing

Through out much of the United States and even southern Canada, C.s.serpentina can be kept outdoors throughout they year. In the southernmost US C.s.osceola can be also. The key to building a proper outdoor enclosure is providing a spacious habitat with multiple depth levels.

The pond for snapping turtles should be at least 4'x5' for one adult turtle and larger for multiple specimens. Water depth should slope from around 6" deep to 18" or deeper. If the turtle is to over-winter in this pond, the water must be deep enough so that it will not freeze all the way to the bottom. Ponds can be earthen, cement, or plastic/rubber lined. If artificially lined, a layer of mud or sand should be placed on the bottom so that the turtle can dig into this for the winter. Earthen ponds offer snapping turtles the opportunity to dig under water "caves" inside the pond. They will use these areas to hide during the day and will sometimes over winter in them. A snag such as a large piece of driftwood helps create a more natural environment. The pond should be partially shaded and an area must receive the morning sun. A high powered pump/heavy duty filtration system should be used if at all possible.

About 3 feet from the rim of the pond, place your retaining wall. Snapping turtles are surprisingly great climbers that can easily cross over a wire or chain link fence. I recommend using aluminum sheeting to build the fence. When properly used, this is a very reliable and weather resistant fencing material. The wall should be tall enough that the turtles can not climb out of yet short enough so that the keeper can step into. Eighteen inches above the ground level and several inches below (to prevent "dig outs") is very suitable.

Feeding

Common snapping turtles are omnivorous. Other than commercial pellets, try offering a variety of fresh foods as well. They will accept appropriately sized minnows, gold fish, crayfish and pond snails. The young are very fond of mealworms, guppies and ghost shrimp. Young and adult alike appreciate night crawlers. Chicken meat, beef heart, turkey, and fish slabs are all good to offer as well. A surprisingly large amount of the diet should consist of vegetation as well. Try giving out romaine lettuce, mustard greens, elodea, water hyacinths; and some will even take strawberries, apple and banana on occasion (although these items should only be offered periodically). Turtle, trout and catfish chows can be given, but these items should not make up the entire food intake.

Growth and Longevity

A hatchling snapping turtle is small, only about an inch or so at hatch. Within a year though, a well cared for turtle may be 2.5 to 4 inches, and within five years may be 8 inches or larger and ready to breed. Captive specimens often live 25-40 years but 50 years or longer is possible.

Breeding

Like most temperate turtle species, Chelydra needs some sort of a cool down/rest period in order to encourage breeding. Because housing for multiple individuals in an indoor setting is difficult or even impossible for many, most keepers are only able to breed snapping turtles kept in outdoor setups. In the outdoor pond, breeding takes place shortly after hibernation. This may be in late February for those in the south or April for those farther north. They breed in shallow water and 6-10 weeks later, a female will leave the water and deposit her eggs. In the wild, females may travel great distances from her water home to find a suitable nesting area. By providing a sandy area, she will be more apt to lay in your pen. Nesting takes place in the evening, usually after a rain, and may last well into night. Inside the nest she may lay up to 40 or more eggs, although the typical number is 10-30. The eggs may take 3-4 months to hatch, and in northern climates, the young may over-winter in the nest.

If you want to artificially incubate your eggs, place them in a plastic container shoe box and poke several holes in the side for air exchange. Inside the egg container should be a 1-inch deep layer of moistened vermiculite. As the eggs are removed from the nest, an x should be placed on top to ensure you do not rotate them. After 24 hours, rolling a turtle egg will result in killing the embryo.

Each egg is about 1 inch in diameter and looks like a ping pong ball. Snapping turtles are temperature sexed, and eggs kept at 73 degrees F produce primarily males. However if the temps are raised to 77 degrees F most of the young will be females.

When ready to hatch, the young snappers will slit the egg using their egg tooth. Don't be alarmed if they wait several days after this before emerging. Just make sure the hatching container stays moist.

After emerging, the young will still have remnants of they egg sac left on them. It usually takes 1-3 days before they begin accepting food because they are still absorbing this egg yolk.

Newborns should be kept in very shallow water for the first few days of life- just over the carapace level. After they become more active and begin normal feeding habits, you can introduce them to the hatchling tanks described previously.

Did you know?

For many years snapping turtles have been used for making turtle soup, and each year hundreds of adults are harvested for this purpose. In Asia, eating turtles is so common that some countries import millions of hatchlings (of snapping turtle and other species) from US farms for the purpose of raising and eating.

In the past, snapping turtles were used to locate human bodies in creeks, rivers and lake.

The safest way to handle a large, aggressive snapping turtle is by carrying it by the tail (with the head pointed away from you!). In some Central American villages, snapping turtles are considered pests because they will grab chicks from the water banks and eat them. Snapping turtles have been known to eat other turtles, including young of their own specie.

Summary

Chelydra serpentina makes a very hardy and adaptable captive if proper housing and care can be furnished. They are extremely suitable for outdoor keeping and can be cared for this way as far north as southern Canada. Despite common belief that all snapping turtles grow up to be aggressive, if handled frequently from a young age, they can become just as "tame" as many other water turtles. Although not as personable as some of the more terrestrial chelonians, this specie makes a great display animal, and is very impressive in both size and habits.

Come visit the Snapping Turtle Forum on kingsnake.com, as well as the extensive collection of new forums for pondkeepers, including turtle ponds, at PondHobbyist.com!

Cold Blooded Chronicles is copyright 2003 by OnlineHobbyist.com unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.